It’s that wonderful time of year again in Niigata when the weather cools to a manageable degree and the crisp air is tinged with the smell of smoke. Not just any old smoke, but the pleasant fumes of specialty and seasonal trains chugging around the prefecture, offering unforgettable experiences ranging from sleek and modern, to traditional and nostalgic. Hop aboard as we showcase five trains designed to show you unique corners—and cuisine—of Niigata throughout fall, spring and summer that a car-ride simply can’t compare to.
Koshino Shu*Kara
Niigata’s cool clean water coupled with its grade-A koshihikari rice provide the ideal brewing conditions for some of Japan’s best sake. That being said, one of JR East’s novelty Joyful Trains, Koshino Shu*Kura, is the perfect vehicle for you to enjoy a drink—or two—while taking in the spectacular views along the Sea of Japan coastline. The appeal is in the name itself, with “Koshi” referring to the old name for Niigata, “Shu” meaning sake and “Kura” standing for brewery.
Onboard the Koshino Shu*Kuru, you’ll find three cars offering a variety of experiences. With a reservation, Car 1 provides you colorful bento sets paired with special Niigata sake, while Car 2 comes with an open-window observation area and is also home to the train’s Kuramori (service counter) serving up all manner of local Niigata drinks. For the more independent types, a sake tasting corner with five rotating brands of drinks awaits. With your basic fare and reserved-ticket in hand, head to Car 3 for reclining seats and an open space at the caboose to lounge and converse.
- Contact Edge of Niigata for booking assistance
- Operating Times: Runs from mid-August to the end of November
- Routes:
Koshino Route: Joetsumyoko Station ⭤ Tokamachi station
Yuzawa Route: Joetsumyoko station ⭤ Echigo-Yuzawa station
Ryuto Route: Joetsumyoko station ⭤ Niigata station
Oykot
Another memorable trip from Joyful Trains, the cleverly-named Oykot offers just what it promises: an experience completely the opposite of Tokyo (get it?) that takes you into the heartland of Japan.
It’s clear from its rustic-looking exterior that the Oykot was meant to be a ride down memory lane. Its two beige and apple-red cars have been lovingly designed to resemble traditional shoji (sliding paper doors), and thatched roofs typically associated with a bygone era in Japan. Inside its warm interior are 76 seats equally steeped in memories, bringing with them the atmosphere of an old private home. Adding to the experience, Showa-era narrators elucidate stories, shamisen maestros perform and you even have a chance to don a handmade straw sugeboshi, or snow hat.
The Oykot runs between the rural routes of Nagano and Niigata prefectures, making roundtrips from the textile hub of Tokamachi to Nagano City with plenty of picturesque stops along the way.
- Contact Edge of Niigata for booking assistance
- Operating Times: Weekends in November, weekends in mid-to-late Spring
- Route: Nagano station ⭤ Tokamachi station
Kairi
One of Niigata prefecture’s highlights includes its miles of coastline, brimming with sea views and villages that specialize in fresh mouth-watering seafood. Joyful Train’s Kairi (“kai” meaning “sea” and “ri”meaning village) seamlessly combines both by giving you a front seat to the gems dotting the shoreline. The Kairi is not only the closest train line to the Sea of Japan, but it gives you a front-row seat to Niigata’s gorgeous Sasagawa Nagare coast.
While the diesel hybrid train’s front two cars allow passengers to soak in the stunning views in an open or private setting, Car 4’s dining area is where Kairi truly comes alive. A seasonal menu of colorful and meticulously-curated dishes and local drinks are offered, including meals from esteemed local “ryotei”, or traditional Japanese restaurants, founded in the Edo period. Additionally, passengers can enjoy Italian cuisine prepared by local master chefs from Niigata and Yamagata’s Shōnai region. For those looking to beat the winter blues, Kairi even offers a New Year’s package, with the promise of a winter snowscape as a bonus.
The Kairi experience starts in Niigata city and heads north along the Sea of Japan into Yamagata prefecture, where you’ll alight at the lovely harbor town of Sakata with time to explore.
- Contact Edge of Niigata for booking assistance
- Operating Times: Runs Friday-Sunday from early March to late November, and Saturday-Sunday from December to February
- Route: Niigata station ⭤ Sakata station
SL Banetsu Monogatari
Up next on our list is not only Joyful Train’s longest train, but easily the oldest. The 7-car SL Banetsu Monogatari was originally a C57-180 steam locomotive first built in 1946, but eventually retired in the Niigata City’s Niitsu district. However, due to popular demand, the 180 was resurrected and restored in 1999, much to the delight of train enthusiasts, retro-seekers and even kids.
To ride the SL Banetsu is to take a trip back to Japan’s Taisho era (1912-1926), with its nostalgic engine pumping black velvety steam over a long line of cars filled with coal and eager passengers. Catering exclusively to children and younger riders, SL Banetsu’s Car 1’s observation car has been transformed into an indoor playground, boasting a slide, ball pit and toys. Elsewhere in another observation car, history is on full display in the form of old pictures, as well as an old Japanese post box that you can still deposit letters into. For the more modern traveler, a special Green Car has been installed, which offers a more cozy setting to relax.
The SL Banetsu makes roundtrips southwest from the charming Niitsu area over rivers and through forests into Fukushima prefecture until its final stop in the castle town of Aizu Wakamatsu.
- Contact Edge of Niigata for booking assistance
- Operating Times: Weekends from mid-August to early December
- Route: Niitsu station ⭤ Aizu-Wakamatsu Station
Setsugekka
In 2015, the Hokuriku Shinkansen’s route was extended from Nagano to Kanazawa, finally making travel from Tokyo to the Sea of Japan coast possible in a mere few hours. Moreover, this new route passed through two major stations in Niigata prefecture: JoetsuMyoko and Itoigawa. To capitalize on this opportunity, one of Niigata’s local train companies, Echigo Tokimeki, released their sumptuous and award-winning train, Echigo Tokimeki Resort Setsugekka, onto the rails the same year.
The “resort” inclusion was no accident or case of hyperbole. Setugekka’s two sleek vermillion cars were creatively designed for passengers to feel the luxury of soaking up stunning vistas through their massive windows (the biggest in Japan) in an exclusive setting. Panoramic views of the majestic Myoko mountain range, green fields and the glimmering Sea of Japan would be enough on their own, but delectable meals and drinks make this train a true treasure. Rotating French and Japanese cuisine using local seasonal Niigata ingredients are served on the departing and return trips, along with wine and sake brewed in the prefecture. Car 2’s warm wooden “Sakura Bar” is also open for your additional beverage requests.
The ephemeral yet extravagant trip into Niigata’s mountainous rural landscape and back takes about 3 hours and is the perfect way to spend a weekend. In Japanese, Setsugekka means “beautiful views through all the seasons”, which is appropriate as Niigata’s snowy winters, rosy springs, lush summers and ruby autumns are a sight to see.
- Contact Edge of Niigata for booking assistance
- Operating Times: Early July to late September, and early October to mid-December
- Route: Joetsumyoko station ⭤ Itoigawa station
In conclusion
As you can see, there are many ways to get off the highway and unpack the rich and diverse landscape of Niigata, while being dined in the process. What’s more, supporting these sightseeing trains positively impacts the Niigata tourism industry and the communities they serve.
So how about it? Park your car and let someone else shuttle you around for a change. Regardless of which train you choose, the most important thing is that you buy the ticket and take the ride.
Even though Joshua Furr is from North Carolina (home of bluegrass, flight and Pepsi), he prefers a life outside the U.S. Currently you’ll find him in Warsaw, Poland.
He has a beautiful wife and two sons, all whom he forces to listen to Japan-based conversation and 80s music. Around lunch, he dreams about eating gyudon at Sukiya. When he’s not spending time with his family, he’s writing, teaching or tinkering with Adobe software. |