A million miles an hour, you zoom and zip down the side of a frozen mountain whole fresh white powder whooshes all around you. Victoriously reaching the bottom, you rush back up the lift to get the same thrill again.

Although now a beloved seasonal sport, skiing was imported to Japan only 100 years ago. To appreciate this frosty pastime, we pay homage to one Austrian Major Theodor Edler von Lerch on the slopes of Niigata’s Snow Country.

LERCH AND THE SNOW COUNTRY

While Lerch may not be a household name throughout Japan, in Niigata, he’s considered quite the celebrity. Joetsu locals lovingly refer to him as “Re-ru-he-san” and have even immortalized his memory by a cartoon icon, complete with characteristic mustache and yellow uniform. So what does he have to do with Japanese skiing?

In 1910 an Austro-Hungarian soldier named Theodor Edler von Lerch was sent to observe Japanese Imperial army methods. Since he was a known ski expert, he was assigned to the snowy area of Takada, modern day Joetsu from September 26, 1910 to January 1, 1913.

Lerch quickly felt right at home in the Snow Country.

Major Theodor Edler von Lerch （present and past)
https://twitter.com/TheodorVonLerch

THE BIRTH OF SKIING IN JAPAN

 Although Joetsu’s inhabitants were as prepared as they possibly could be for winter, with kanjiki (snow shoes) and minobashi (straw snow coats), traversing across the snow at high speeds (or for pleasure!) was something unheard of.

On January 12, 1911, Lerch was asked to give a demonstration of his skiing skills on Mt. Kanaya, Takada. Borrowing the method taught by alpine ski founder, Zdarsky, Lerch’s technique involved fixed steel bindings, short skis and a bamboo pole for brakes. His infamous run left the audience with jaws agape and an insatiable desire to learn. Just one month later, on February 19th, the Takada Ski Club was established with around 6,000 original members, including Japanese officers, soldiers, and citizens.

Lerch’s students

Lerch’s brief tenure in Takada ended in early 1912, when he was transferred to Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido. Lerch’s exploration around the area led him to spots such as Kutchan and Niseko that are now some of the top destinations for ski hounds in Japan. Indeed, Lerch had done more than just observe and report on the goings-on with the Japanese military, he’d changed the way the entire country approached the winter season.

First lessons

KEEPING THE PAST COOL AND FRESH

In 1992, the Japan Ski Origin Memorial Museum was built at the foot of Mt. Kanaya to honor the 80th anniversary of the birth of skiing in Japan. Just a few feet away from the museum, a magnificent bronze statue of the Austro-Hungarian Major was erected, giving visitors a glimpse of the man himself, as well as a panoramic view of the city. Twenty years later, in 2012, Lerch’s distinguishable mustache and trademark uniform were immortalized in cartoon form to commemorate the skiing’s centennial.

A museum, statue and cartoon character are great, but what better way to pay respect to Lerch and appreciate the fruits of his labor than with a festival in the middle of winter? Every February, the city of Joetsu holds the annual Lerch Festival in two of its venues. The first occurs on the slopes of Mt. Kanaya itself with free ski admission, musical performances, food/beer stalls (Austrian included!) and free access to the ski museum. Further down the mountain is the Honmachi Gachimori Festival, where visitors can feel the warmth from intricately crafted snow lanterns while enjoying the food stalls/restaurants offering portions 3.5 times the usual size!

As the date changes each year, please check the most up-to-date information here: https://joetsukankonavi.jp/lerch-fest/

Even though Joshua Furr is from North Carolina (home of bluegrass, flight and Pepsi), he prefers a life outside the U.S. Currently you’ll find him in Warsaw, Poland. He has a beautiful wife and two sons, all whom he forces to listen to Japan-based conversation and 80s music. Around lunch, he dreams about eating gyudon at Sukiya. When he’s not spending time with his family, he’s writing, teaching or tinkering with Adobe software.